andreahg

long time, no see

Sun, 28 Jun 2009 16:38:21 GMT

I know it's been a long time since I've posted here. I kinda got tired of posting all my sewing projects here AND newvintage.wordpress.com AND doing reviews at patternreview.com, so LJ got dropped.

I've really struggled to try to find a way to lose or even maintain my weight while eating real food. Sure, I could go back to Medifast and probably drop it again, but Medifast is nothing but chemicals. Last week, Lisa recommended that I keep a food diary so that my endocrinologist and I could go over it. She always gets on my case for gaining weight and claims my numbers are good and my meds don't need adjusting. So far, it looks like the problem isn't my food. Even with some extras, like cobbler for dinner or a few glasses of wine, I'm staying right around 1500 calories. I've gone to various calorie formula websites and have been told that I should be consuming at least 2000 calories. I find this ridiculous. At 1500 calories per day, I'm gaining 3lbs per week. I'm seeing my endocrinologist on Tuesday and I plan to bring my food diary with me to show her. Every time we discuss my weight, I feel like she's accusing me of lying about what I eat. Now, at least, I can show her what I eat. It's nice to have something in black and white to prove myself. In my mind, this explains why I didn't lose weight on the Atkins diet, why I gained weight on Weight Watchers and why I just can't maintain the loose I had with Medifast. In different self-help books on hypothyroidism, the authors talk about how some doctors go on the numbers alone, rather than talking with the patient to determine the quality of life. The last time I saw the doctor, I complained about all the classic symptoms, fatigue, sleeping more, being cold, nails and hair breaking and the fast weight gain. She took one look at my numbers and said "your number looks good, you must have depression", because most of those symptoms can be depression, too. I've been clinically depressed in the past. I know what it feels like. I don't feel depressed. I feel like I did right before I was first diagnosed with hypothyroidism. Its possible that my lab results are normal but what is "normal" isn't "normal" for me.

Simplicity 1373

Thu, 23 Apr 2009 17:13:29 GMT

I fell in love with the pattern the minute I laid eyes on it. The scooped waist seam is an interesting detail I hadn’t seen before. The option of long sleeves is appealing, as I don’t have many long sleeved patterns. The princess seamed bodice is something I hadn’t tried on vintage patterns before. So many new details to try!

The first step was to grade up. The original pattern is sized to fit a 32 bust, 26 waist and 35 hip. After my first muslin was completed, it should that the waist needed to be lowered an inch. Those were the only alterations needed to the bodice. To the skirt, I took a 1in fold in length, then cut 4in off the finished hem length. I’m not quite as happy with the finished product as I was with the bodice before the skirt went on. The heavy skirt pulls the bodice down, so it doesn’t quite fit as nicely as without the skirt, but it’s still a pretty dress.

Vintage Pattern Sale

Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:46:13 GMT

I have decided to sell off some of my vintage pattern collection. These patterns are all styles that I fell in love with, but for some reason or other, just don’t suit me. I LOVE suits, but just don’t wear them. I love great big collars, but they do nothing for a top-heavy figure. I’ve made a flickr set of my pattern for sale. They will be $5 each or 4 for $18 via paypal, shipping is free within the US. If you’re interested, leave me a comment.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12275674@N08/sets/72157617044503561/

New Look 6799

Thu, 02 Apr 2009 18:11:17 GMT

So, here I am, back at a bigger size. I was beating myself up about it until I saw my endocronologist this week. She said that one of the medications I've been taken this year can cause clinical depression in some women. I feel a little better knowing it's more complicated than just me loving pie. Part of trying to feel better about myself is having clothes that I feel good in. Here is one of my new dresses that I love. It has a cute vintage feel, especially when worn with a white cardi and ballet flats, and I LOVE the color.

More things for the SWAP

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 19:14:49 GMT

I have two more garments done for my SWAP. It's going much slower than I had hoped. Some garments just aren't working out. The linen was totally wrong for the fitted 50's tops. Once sewn up, they bagged out horribly. In to the trash they went. So, no blue top, blue skirt, cream top. I got some new blue cotton, but went with a modern blouse. It's New Look 6598. It looks great with jeans or trousers, but awful with the skirt. I can't decide if it's the hem length or the straight hem shape or what, but it's just not working as a SWAP garment. I originally bought enough to make a blouse and skirt, so there's enough leftover to make another blouse. But, that leaves me with only 2 bottom pieces
The skirt is the same basic half circle skirt pattern I used for the brown skirt.

I'm really struggling with my trouser pattern. I've done a lot of reading about trouser fitting, so I'm want to get it right. I've only made a couple pairs of trouser before, but wasn't careful about fit. I've made so many muslins and tried 3 different patterns. I'm almost ready to give up. BUT, just like with the blue cotton, if I give up on the trouser, I'm stuck with only 2 bottom pieces.

SWAP outfits

Sat, 07 Mar 2009 22:48:55 GMT

Here is the first complete outfit from my SWAP. I ended up changing the skirt for jeans as the only brown shoes I have have a heel that is not good for walking. I must get new shoes! The blouse is a 50's pattern and the skirt is modern circle skirt pattern.

SWAP 2009 Progress Report

Tue, 03 Mar 2009 22:30:46 GMT

My SWAP is not going as planned. I've already had to trash 2 tops and might be trashing another. The first top I trashed was the blue knit. The tester garment has become my favorite top, but it did not look nearly as flattering in a solid color. In the solid, the ruching just called attention to my belly. Not a good look. The second top I trashed was a bonus top. After cutting out my circle skirt and blouse, I had enough left over for a second blouse. I wasn't too concerned about testing, since by the measurements it should have fit and the reviewers at patternreview.com gave it glowing reviews. It fit perfectly when I tried it on without the sleeves. However, the sleeves and armhole were really funky. I could not raise my arms above waist level. Now, we're up to today. My blue linen washed up much softer than I was expecting. I was hoping it would be ok, but it's turning out to be a problem. Even though I used my tester as my pattern, it doesn't look anything like the tester. It drapes completely different. It looks pretty bad. I really should have used a stiff cotton. I'll put it aside for a while and take another look at it in a few days.

SWAP 2009 Update

Thu, 26 Feb 2009 20:32:25 GMT

My goal is to start the actual work March 1. We’re coming up to the deadline and I think I’ll be ready to go. I did hit a couple snags, though.

1.The light blue linen I ordered was slightly off the blue in the flowers. However, after driving all over the county, I think it’s the closest I’m going to get.

2.I’ve decided I would never wear a solid brown top. This takes me down to 5 tops in my SWAP.

3. I can not find cream or ecru matte jersey or jersey with lycra. I’m really surprised, considering that it’s a basic color. I found it online, so I guess it will have to wait.

Other than those things, I’m ready to go. Everything will go in the wash today and I should be ready to start cutting on March 1.

Butterick 7552

Thu, 19 Feb 2009 23:29:55 GMT

I think I’ve found the blouse pattern for my solids. This is Butterick 7552, which I have used as the basis for a dress, but have never it made as a blouse. This pattern works with jeans as well as skirts. Wow, it's that Chinese print again. Thanks, Lisa! I would have been spending a ton of money on tester fabric if it wasn't for your generous gift.

Simplicity 2977

Sun, 15 Feb 2009 18:07:27 GMT

In addition to the vintage patterns that will be a part of my SWAP, I would like to have a good knit top pattern. The first candidate is Simplicity 2977. This was my first time using matte jersey and I really like it. While it was labeled matte jersey, it's actually an interlock weave, which means it doesn't curl that cotton jersey does. Because it's poly/lycra, it's much thinner and has a nicer drape than cotton interlock. I am curious to see how it breathes in the middle of summer. If it doesn't cause major sweating, than it could be the ideal knit fabric. Another first for this project is my first SUCCESSFUL FBA on a princess seamed garment. I've been doing it on darted patterns forever, but always mess up princess seamed ones. When I originally tried this one, I LOVED it. However, looking at the pictures, I'm not so sure. I just hate that me chest looks enormous in this top. One of these days, I'll get up the courage to have surgery on them. Other than the huge boobage, it hugs my waist without clinging and the ruching camouflages my belly. Oh, and please excuse the lack and make-up and messy hair. Our house was the site of a sleepover with 3 boys and a girl, between the ages of 6 and 10.

Coupons!

Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:05:34 GMT

This was originally posted on my main blog site, but I know there are LJ people that might not visit that site.

Earlier this week, I was contacted by someone from www.fabric.com. For mentioning their site on the blog, they are giving my readers a $5 off coupon, valid until 2/19.

coupon code: blognewvintage

SWAP 2009 change of direction

Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:28:13 GMT

So, after 2 weeks of testing garments, I think I’ve come to a conclusion. I need to let go of the need to be “historically accurate”. Back when I was involved in historical reenactment, this was a HUGE deal for me. It has remained with me as I started to get into vintage clothing. However, after seeing all the various garments on me, I’ve come to see that the best garments for my figure don’t always come from the same era. Part of the beauty of choosing vintage styled garments is that I can pick what best suits me. From what I can see, what seems to suit me best is the 40’s A-line skirt and 50’s fitted blouse.

This picture shows 40’s A-line skirt with a 40’s blouse

Oh, my word! My chest looks GINORMOUS

However, with a T&T (tried and true) 50’s blouse, the girls don’t look quite so big and you can actually see a waistline.

I think these will be the two garments that form the basis of my complete wardrobe.

SWAP 2009 Progress Report

Wed, 11 Feb 2009 14:43:19 GMT

Today, I ordered my fabric! This feels like a huge step forward. I've been waiting to get paid before ordering and it felt like I was just treading water.

Here is my final choice for my print fabric. It has the same chocolate, blue and cream, but a more classic print.

I've also been doing tester garments. Some of my original plans for patterns haven't worked out as planned. I will be using the same skirt pattern, but not the blouse. My plan is to use Simplicity 3789 as the body, with a vintage collar and sleeve to give it a more vintage look.

his pattern is from their "BCD" collection, meaning it has seperate pieces for B, C, and D cup sizes. This makes fitting the garment SOOO much easier. I've made a tester blouse, using the sleeve and collar that comes with the pattern, and it looked great. The 40's blouse was just doing nothing for my figure. This week, I will make a wearable, I hope, tester blouse using the collar and sleeves from Hollywood 6151 on the bodice of the above pattern

SWAP 2009 Update

Fri, 06 Feb 2009 18:06:35 GMT

I've given up on the idea of a completely vintage SWAP. The reality is that sewing knits is so much faster and less stressful that a huge chunk of my SWAP will be jersey knit. I've decided to use Simplicity 3688 for my trouser and woven skirt pattern

Simplicity 7635 will be my knit skirt and tee pattern

The biggest problem with trying to do a vintage SWAP is finding a print. I found some lovely, but quite modern cotton woven prints that would do well in a SWAP. For example:

There would be a brown knit tee, blue knit tee, white knit tee, print woven blouse, white woven blouse, blue woven blouse. For bottoms, brown knit skirt, blue knit skirt, brown woven trousers and print woven skirt. It would make a great wardrobe, but by using such a modern print, would I lose the vintage feel? However, after doing the basics, this color palette could be easily added to in more vintage styles, ie: blue gingham peasant top, solid blue or brown skirts, ect. I'm open to thoughts/opinions/suggestions!

need some fitting advice!

Wed, 04 Feb 2009 22:25:46 GMT

Here is my toile of Hollywood 932. This pattern is 12in smaller than my measurements, so it was a huge grading project. In addition to the straight grade, I also added a 1in FBA, 1in to the bicep and 3/4in in length above the waist. I think I need a little more room in the bicep. I'm just not happy with this. Anyone have any suggestions?

SWAP 2009

Wed, 04 Feb 2009 14:56:20 GMT

I am considering doing a SWAP for summer of 2009. SWAP stands for Sewing With A Plan and usually consists of 6 tops, 4 bottoms and 1 jacket that all go together. A dress can be included if it can be worn with the jacket. There have been SWAP contests running for several years, on various websites. I think I'm too late enter this year's contests, as most of them are using a time frame of November 2008-April 2009 for when the garments must be sewn. I would like to do a vintage SWAP, but I'm not sure it will work out. In my experience, 50's separates tend to look quite frumpy on me. I've made several blouses and a couple skirts, but never wear them. I have a couple 40's separates that might work. Yes, I've complained about 40's fashions before, but the separates seem to look less fussy and more wearable than the dresses.

For example, here's Hollywood 932

I think the long, shaped hem of the top would be quite flattering for my short waist. I'm not so sure about the gathered skirt, but for that, I have Hollywood 1164

This pattern is a good basic blouse and skirt. I think the skirt is perfect! I already have a high waisted, wide leg trouser pattern that I love and I don't wear jackets on a regular basis, so I don't plan to make one.

I haven't made either of these patterns before and will need to test them out before making a decision. If neither of these work, I have a modern pattern picked out.

25 Random Things About Me

Mon, 02 Feb 2009 01:50:57 GMT

I've been tagged several times, but I've put it off, thinking I didn't have 25 interesting thing to say about myself.

1. I've been with my husband for 15 years.
2. We bought my childhood home from my parents.
3. When I was little, I wanted to be an Olympic figure skater
4.I grew up in a cat-only household, but am now stupid in love with my dogs
5.I have done plus-sized modeling, but am now too thin for plus sized and too heavy for regular
6.Even though I never wanted to be a hairstylist, I am a really good one.
7.Every few years, I make an attempt to go to college, but never get any where
8.I am very proud of the fact that my sons never went to daycare.
9.I taught myself how to sew at 19yr old
10.I currently own 5 sewing machines
11.I love to read, but only books with werewolves and vampires
12.I love all types of music, except country and bluegrass.
13.Almost all of my friends are writers/bloggers, podcasters or New Media experts, but I am none of the above.
14. Eric Estrada once called me "sweetheart"
15.My first concert was the Jackson's Victory Tour in 1984
16.My most recent concert was Ratdog in 2007
17."VIVISect VI" by Skinny Puppy scares me and I still can only listen to it during the daytime
18.I got my first grey hair when I was 15 and have been dying it ever since.
19.I learned to drive with a stick shift car
20.Even though it's been months since I read World War Z, I still have zombie nightmares
21.I have been an insomniac all my adult life. I never sleep more than 3-4hrs in a row.
22.I participated in the anti-war protests in front of the White House in the run up to the first Iraqi War.
23.My longest celebrity crush is Henry Rollins
24.I've only been knitting for less than 2 years, but it's my favorite hobby
25.I hate the taste of beer.

How cool is this?

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 15:56:03 GMT

So, despite my first couple of failed attempts at 30's fashions, I have bought a couple more. I did some research, evaluated both my figure and 30's fashion to try to figure out what will work with me. I recently got a copy of Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears catalogs. Normally, these books are pretty good, having several pages of fashions on the larger end of the spectrum. However, someone on FL was kind enough to post several pages from a Montgomery Ward catalog of larger women's fashions. So, here are the 2 patterns I got.

Here's the cool part! When I took everything out of the plastic for the Marian Martin pattern, I found this:

The original owner had copied and altered the bodice, using newspaper. I had a ton of fun reading the bits of pieces of history. There are a couple intact recipes, a Society page, some crime reports, very interesting.

Butterick 7439

Thu, 22 Jan 2009 22:55:20 GMT

Today, we have Butterick 7439. According to http://www.cemetarian.com, this pattern was published in 1955. I'm not quite sure about this one. While I love the neckline and collar and the bodice fit without any adjustment, I think the skirt is too narrow. The brown flannel dress has an A-line skirt, too, but I think is flared a bit more. I also think this dress would look better with a self fabric, skinny belt, but in a rush to clean up prior to having guest, the leftover fabric got thrown out. I think I make use the bodice again, but with a different skirt.

A Lesson Learned the Hard Way

Mon, 12 Jan 2009 21:39:02 GMT

Today, we have yet another failure. This is Patt-o-rama 8304. Haven’t heard of Patt-o-rama before? Neither had I until I came across this one. Now, I see it everywhere. I LUV the neckline on this dress. Little details like that are what I like about vintage patterns. Also, it came in my size, which is a rarity in 50’s pattern.

I did my muslin of the bodice, and it fit perfectly, straight out of the package. I then jumped right into the fashion fabric. I have learned from past experience that when the top half of the bodice fits well, the sleeve will fit well. When the waist of the bodice fits will, the skirt will fit well. I didn’t feel like I needed a muslin of the sleeve or skirt.

Well, that was a big mistake. Remember how I hadn’t heard of this company before I came across this pattern? I should know by now to always make a full muslin of a garment from a new company. This sleeve fits well into the armscye, but the sleeve cap itself is way too narrow. This is not a fitting problem I’ve run across before. I have full biceps and have had to do a slash and spread to the bicep area, but this is much higher.

It’s so tight across the top of the shoulder that it’s pulling the shoulder seam off my shoulder and pulling the bodice taught across the top of the chest area. I’m so disappointed. I went to Hancock’s to buy more fabric. Of course, they were out. This is a nice, heavy winter rayon suiting and they are already moving in their Spring fabrics.

I must admit, I tend to get discouraged with sewing quite a bit during the winter months. I’m allergic to wool, so finding warm fabrics is difficult. Plus, most of the non-wool winter fabrics don’t see to work well with vintage patterns. They just don’t behave and drape the same way as natural fibers. I seem to make alot more mistakes in my winter sewing. The end result is that I have 2, maybe 3 wearable winter dresses and a ton of summer dresses. Every year, about this time, I tell myself that I’m going to quit sewing for myself, but I know I just need some lovely lightweight linen that does exactly what I want it to.

Simplicity 7836: Progress

Thu, 01 Jan 2009 15:50:34 GMT

I worked on this dress all day yesterday, as I had originally planned to wear it to my husband’s birthday party on Saturday. I started cutting it out at 11am and by 5pm, got this far and tried it on. My initial impression, it does nothing for me. It looks better on my mannequin than it does on me, but it still doesn’t look great. I don’t think I’ll finish it. Adding the big, puffy sleeves will only make it look even worse on me. The one positive thing I learned from this is that I can pull of a high neckline. I had been avoiding them, since all the “style experts” say to avoid them if you have a full bustline. So much for “experts”!

Trying Something New

Wed, 31 Dec 2008 15:43:58 GMT

Wow, it's been almost a month since my last post. I've just been too busy to do any personal sewing.

Most of my vintage projects have been from the 1950’s. I’ve blogged about how I feel about WWII fashions. They just don’t work for me. However, in the last couple weeks, I’ve become obessed with 1930’s fashion. The early 30s look to be quite similar to the previous decade, and therefore I can assume the look won’t work for. The late 30’s look to be quite similar to the coming decade, but not quite as severe. It might work for me. I think, however, that the mid-30s typify the era and I have chosen a pattern. This was an eye opening experience.

Shopping for mid-30s patterns has dispelled the “women were smaller back then” myth for me. Shopping for 50’s pattern can leave the average to larger woman frustrated and disappointed. Not so with 30’s patterns. I have come across so many 30’s patterns in sizes to fit 38in and 40in bust, a modern 14-16 in RTW. I’ve even run into a suprising amount of larger pattern. My favorite pattern was a size 46! I’ve never graded a pattern down from a too large size, so I’ve decided to pass it up.

The 1930’s pattern that I’ve chosen as my first project is Butterick 7836. From what I’ve been able to find, Butterick is very hard to date, prior to the 1940’s. From http://www.cemetarian.com
#
1930’s Butterick number series appears to have started around the 4000 number and continued through 8900. Since none of these patterns are dated, it is impossible to verify, but you can follow the sequence of styles through the years and get a rough estimate. Butterick used many different logo placements in this era so the logo is not a good indicator. Style and length are better indications of the dates.

From the above, I’d say that Butterick 7839 is from somewhere between 1935-1937. I’m not quite sure, though.

One of the reasons why I love 1950’s patterns is because they fit me with very little to no alterations. The 50’s emphasize a classic hourglass figure, which is what I have. Working on this 30’s pattern reminds me why I stopped using modern patterns. They are drafted with less difference between waist and hips and a lot less room in the bust. The picture below is of my third toile or muslin. The first attempt was a straightforward grade up 2 sizes. The second attempt added a 1/2in FBA. The third attempt added an addition inch to the FBA, plus I added 1in in length to the bodice front and back. I think it’s finally ready. The fashion fabric is a dark purple rayon gabardine that is quite soft and has a lovely drape.

A Finished UFO

Fri, 05 Dec 2008 13:33:45 GMT

This UFO (unfinished object) has been sitting in the UFO pile since last winter. I didn't really like the fit, but wasn't willing to toss it. I discovered it last week while going through the pile. With fresh eyes, all it really needed was to be taken in a touch. It's a lovely thick, warm flannel version of Simplicity 1577. I lengthened the sleeves, but I think they could be longer. This dress is a perfect example of classic 50's style without a crinoline. While the big puffy skirt is what we typically think of, I'm coming to understand that it was not worn for everyday wear.

Slither from Knitty.com

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 16:10:50 GMT

I finished my right armlet! I still need to weave in all the ends and add buttons up the side seam. This was my first time using intarsia and double pointed needles. The intarsia wasn't hard but the needles suck. The only problem with this is that because I'm so short, it comes up to my armpit.

hmmm

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 21:42:56 GMT

I had always avoided the slim skirted look of the 50's, thinking I couldn't pull it off. However, looking at pictures of a full skirted dress and a slim skirted outfit together, the slim skirt is clearly more flattering. I think my next project will be a slim skirted dress.